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In early 2011, with Madeleine Brand and Javier Cabral, I made my way to the backyard of a family kind enough to invite us in to check out their barbacoa operation. Sadly, it’s an illegal setup, so I can’t share where it is, but I can tell you that it was one of the best meals that I’ve ever had. Every Sunday the mystery woman serves up the most delicious, fresh, and well made huitlacoche filled quesadillas, roasted goat (handpicked and butchered the day before), and a consume made of the drippings, that sets your senses alight. Salty, creamy, gamey, rich, unique, enlightening and beautiful all come to mind when I reminisce about eating this meal.
